not all who wander are lost.

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Big Waves, Big Injuries.

Poor Sean (aka The General). Usually he's top dog in the lineup, yelling at everybody...letting them know where they stand. Usually, I'd hate this. But when the waves are big and the session becomes critical, it's essential to have someone regulating in the lineup. The first time I met him was a session at Periscopes. I got a great set wave, pretty big, then paddled back out to the peak. In a stern tone he let me know that I now had to wait my turn. I thought, "who the fuck is this jerkoff, calling the shots??"...but he reminded me a bit of my dad- so my contempt turned to affection pretty quickly. An outspoken big wave charger, like my dad, he's also been prone to accidents (like my dad!!!). He stepped on a sea urchin last week which completely devastated his foot, and had to be out of the water for a few days. Once he was able to surf again he had an epic session at the Peak--- getting barrel after barrel. His session was cut a bit short though because one of the waves slammed him into the shallow reef below-- cutting open his head. Six stiches and some pain killers later he was once again out of the water. When the waves are big here, the repercussions are no joke... Sometimes you just have to know when to sit out a session, because even seasoned pros like Sean are taking a beating.

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