SE ASIA: Sien Savanh

Sien Savanh is Lao Beef Jerky! MmMmMm Good! In Laos, thin strips of meat are strung onto a bamboo string and then dried in the sun. Well, I cut out the sun and the bamboo and used a dehydrator! Here's how I did it:

Ingredients:

• 1 pound beef flank steak (I used venison)*-thinly sliced into long strips
• 4 cloves of garlic *-crushed then diced
• 1 small knuckle of ginger *-chopped and ground into paste
• 6 tablespoons soy sauce
• huge handful of sesame seeds
• 3 tablespoons brown sugar
• a few pinches of salt
• 3 tablespoons fresh ground black pepper

In a pan add all the ingredients, mix well, and marinate in the fridge overnight. If you have a dehydrator then use this - otherwise dry in the sun for an entire day (turn strips once to get both sides). ENJOY! These are really good when dipped into the Jaew Mak Len.

SE ASIA: Beef Laap

LAAP. So so so delicious. It was tough to pick which was my favorite food I had abroad: beef laap or jaew mak len -- in the end, they pretty much tied. Laap is the national dish of Laos. It is done with beef, chicken and occassionally with fish. Basically, a meat is sauteed and then finished off with fresh herbs, lime juice, chilis and fish sauce. Every little restaurant you will go to will have their own style of Laap -- just like Italians with their pasta sauce. I had some really tragic Laap, and I had some really epic Laap -- but I assure you that this recipe I came up with is EPIC.

Ingredients:

10 ounces lean ground beef

1/2 cup lime juice

3 tablespoons fish sauce

2-3 thinly sliced shallots

1 tablespoon (or more, to your taste!) dried chili

2 teaspoons palm sugar (or brown sugar)

1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro

1/3 cup diced green onion

1/2 cup chopped fresh mint

1/3 cup chopped fresh thai basil

Cook the ground beef at a medium heat. In a bowl combine lime juice, fish sauce, chili and sugar. Add in the cooked ground beef and now mix in mint, shallots, green onion, cilantro, and thai basil. *Many places serve this on a bed of lettuce, so I recommend a delicious way to eat it is to spoon the meat into leaves of lettuce (like meat into a tortilla) and enjoy :)

SE ASIA: Jaew Mak Len

Laos is FULL of delicious food...so long as you are NOT eating at the restaurants, but instead off the beaten path, making your way into the small markets. In Vang Vieng I was introduced to the best little backstreet market by my Rock Climbing guide, Yong. For about 25cents (US) you could get a little two serving bag of Jaew Mak Len, a roasted tomato and chili dip that is sometimes called the "salsa of southeast asia". It is delicious when eaten with hunks of sticky rice -- but now that I'm back in the States, it's also enjoyed with chips as a dip, or on top of some grilled steak (or chicken/fish). Here's a recipe that I came up with that is as close as you're gonna get to the real deal:

Ingredients:

• 6 plum tomatoes
• 3-4 thai chili peppers
• 5 cloves of garlic
• 6 shallots
• 1/2 cup of chopped cilantro
• 1 lime
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 tablespoon agave nectar

Put the tomatoes on skewers. Put the garlic and shallots on a seperate skewer, and reserve another for the chili peppers. I used the barbeque -- you COULD roast them in the oven but I HIGHLY RECOMMEND that you grill them over a FLAME. Grill until fragrant, charred, and completely cooked throughout. (**BE CAREFUL WITH THE THAI CHILIS: when you put them on the skewer, their oil coats the skewer - so be cautious of how you are handling them. I touched my arm after handling them and had to apply an ice pack because the little bit of oil burnt my skin.) Anyways, after you take the goods off the grill - let them cool a bit. Now peel off the charred skins (except for the thai chilis, they can keep their red hot exterior). If you have a mortar and pestle then use this to mash up the ingredients. Otherwise just put everything into a food processor and give it a few shots. Add the fish sauce, agave nectar, salt and lime juice. When it's completely finished let it a cool a bit and then mix in the cilantro. Serve at room temperature (as is mostly everything in Laos). ENJOY.

Asia rendezvous recap.

I'm sitting in the Lao airport right now. It's 6:30am. I'm a bit foggy, a bit anxious and a teensy bit sad. Gave Linda a quick hug this morning before jetting out the door. I'm going to miss my funny, tell-it-like-it-is Dutch traveling partner. I've had two pretty amazing months, and now I'm preparing for my second half of the journey. Though indonesia is also southeast Asia, it seems to be an entity all it's own.

Cambodia was my favorite country in SE Asia. The people were incredibly kind and genuine, the prices were much cheaper than anywhere else I traveled, and the sights were outstanding. The travelers you met in Cambodia were a different breed...not there for the party like most that you meet in Thailand or Laos.

Though Thailand was overrun by tourists and jaded Thai people, PAI in northern Thailand was hands town my favorite town in all of SE Asia. Quaint, intimate, amazing. A sort of Utopia. A place filled with really outstanding food, cheap and delicious street food as well as inexpensive restaurants that offered up outrageously stupendous dishes. Also, here is where I had my good friends Ramzi, Linda...and of course, Mick. Pai is where I began to feel like myself again after such a shitty year. I will definitely be making a return trip....sooner rather than later.

And then there is Laos. The "fuckall hatefest" Laos. I know that my friend Emily Corkill will adamantly disagree...but Laos was absolutely my least favorite country. Yes, many Lao people have a smile on their face, but that's because they are ripping you off; you know it- they know it- and theres not much that you can do about it. The rain definitely tainted my experience here, along with the whole stolen bike scenario- but the trip was saved by the beautiful landscapes, delicious local food (laap, jaew mak len, Lao salad...I could go on) and of course- rock climbing. Almost every inch of Laos looks like a postcard. The heart of mother nature lives in the limestone cliffs of Vang Vieng (it's just a shame that the town has become overrun with inappropriately drunk and inconsiderate Brits). It was impossible to take a BAD picture in Laos...whether you were in the old sleepy town of Luang Prabang, party town and outdoor adventure destination Vang Vieng, or the french-inspired capital of Vientiane. If it weren't the case that I was blatantly ripped off Atleast once a day then maybe I'd leave with a better taste in my mouth. Oh well, a great time was still had, a new sport acquired, and some fabulous new friends were made.

And now- a short flight to Bangkok, several hours of killing time in Bangkok International before my afternoon flight to Jakarta, then to Bali. I can't wait to be reunited with my Meesh, and to be reunited with my beloved ocean...it's been too long.

26

I just spent 26$ on dinner. Usually I don't spend more than 20$ in a whole day...that's breakfast, lunch, dinner, accommodation and more. But for $26 I enjoyed a fabulous meal at a fabulous french restaurant:

*Steak aux herbes de Provence with frites
*2 large glasses of delicious French wine
*cappuccino
*a HUGE cheese tray

For 26. Total. Insane.

Good People make for Good Times.

I'm hooked. A junkie in the making. I want to climb rocks....not now, Right now.

I ran into the boys on day 4, my first day of rest after 3 days of climbing. They were headed to climb somewhere across the river and they said that they'd be out at the Q-Bar later in the evening. We met up that night and of course we talked about climbing. I had a million questions, and they were eager to provide me with answers. Shane asked if I wanted to join them for a climb the next day- they were headed to a place 20k outside of town. He told me to just rent a harness and some shoes, and to meet them at their breakfast spot on the corner at 9am. I could barely sleep. These guys are ammmaazing climbers-- so I was excited that I was even allowed to tag along-- but better yet I was going to get in some climbing as well!!! I woke before 7, had coffee and breakfast, rented my gear and met up with the boys. Let me introduce you:

Mike: mike is 30years old...from upstate PA, but has been living on the west coast for years now. He has his masters degree in environmental education and he is a diehard outdoorsmen. For 6 months of the year he works in Yosemite National Park and the other 6 in northern California or traveling around the globe. He is extremely docile, lover not a fighter, and patient-beyond-comprehension. He is humble and the type of person that always says "bless you" after you sneeze. He's a goddamn powerhouse, 185pounds of sheer muscle...a climbing machine. He dances his way up the rocks. Its fascinating. I'll be visiting him this fall in yosemite for some free camping, hotsprings, and of course- climbing!

Marcus: Marcus is 31 years old, from Switzerland. He is an accomplished graphic designer, musician, cycler, hiker, snowboarder, surfer and climber. As soon as you think you've figured out Marcus he throws a curve ball at you-- he's probably also a master painter and famous philosopher! He has a hand in everything! I love Marcus's attitude-- "no probbblem". He was the one belaying me on a difficult climb the other day. I was up there for awhile, and had to say TAKE a couple times...just hanging there trying to figure out a route to the top. I was cussing up a storm and apologizing for being a shitty climber. He always just gave a little smile and a shrug, replying "...No Probbblem".

Shane: Shane is from new Zealand. He is quite tall with broad full shoulders and an amazing chiseled back. He is extremely quiet and he comes off as serious-- though I get the impression that when he's around his buddies that he's anything BUT serious. He's an athlete through and through- and he's done everything from racing dirtbikes to surfing. The first few days that I hung out with Shane I thought that he hated me. Or atleast was annoyed by me and my constant banter. On the final day, in the final hours, I realized that this wasnt the case at all. Shane is shy and considerate and patient-- I get the impression that not only is he a loyal climbing partner, but the most loyal of friends. When he climbs he is quiet and calculated, each move thought out. If we had a few more days together I think that he would have come out of his shell a bit. No worries though, I'll be seeing him again.

Alon: Alon is Israeli, and is Shanes travel partner and climbing partner. They met in New Zealand and they've been climbing and Traveling together ever since. The compliment eachother like peanutbutter and jelly-- it seems as if they've been friends since birth. Alon is also an amazing climber-- but he shouts cuss words when he falls and he does NOT like words of encouragement while climbing. He takes full advantage of me being gullible...telling tall tales that get me going. "I just met my parents in Bangkok". "REALLY?!? no way!!!". Hahaha. Oh me oh my.

Last but not least,
Ahoud: Ahoud is also Israeli. He met Shane and Alon while climbing in Ton Sai (Thailand), and they reconnected in Vang Vieng. He's the most outgoing of the bunch- with a wicked sense of humor and sharp wit. Amidst the serious climbers, Ahoud is cursing and yelling and talking about cigarettes and beer. I love him. He also gives one of the best hugs I've ever gotten. He always says exactly what's on his mind and doesn't take any shit. He likes to climb, but he doesn't live and breathe it like the other guys do. He jokes that he's "retired" from the sport.

This group of gentlemen really MADE not only my trip to Van Vieng, but to all of Laos. I was having a "fuckall hatefest" until I started climbing and until I met the boys. Our final day together consisted of lounging all day by a blue lagoon, dipping in the cold water and relaxing. We had an EPIC Lao BBQ for dinner and then dancing and drinks @ the Q Bar to finish up the night. Such a lovely group of human beings, who were patient and extremely helpful in assisting me to wrap my head around this new sport. I'm so grateful to have crosses paths with them, and I can't wait for round 2....perhaps next year in Ton Sai!!

Linda and I have arrived now in the capital. We are drinking GOOD coffee at a proper CAFE, and later we are going to enjoy some wine and dinner at one of Vientianes many amazing French restaurants. Laos wasn't so bad afterall thanks to a few special travelers. Hopefully ill be just as lucky when I arrive in Indonesia. Two months of surfing, yoga, music and healthy living. Leaving this adventure and on to the next....

-John Hope Franklin : "We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the bypaths and untrodden depths of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world the glories of our journey."

Sent from my iPhone

Nerd.

I loooooovvveee SKYPE. If it weren't for this amazing way to keep intouch abroad then I certainly wouldn't be away right now. After much pestering, my friend Sarah FINALLY made an account. When you talk Skype to Skype (one account to another), it's free!!! So I can call you from southeast Asia, and we can talk for hours, for free. Because I have an iPhone, I'm also able to Video Skype, which is fabulous and funny. Apparently I'm very animated while video skyping...Sarah took these pictures of me when we were chatting the other day. Christ I'm such a nerd. I'm pretty sure that we were in the midst of gossiping about an exboyfriend or perhaps I was rambling about rock climbing....

If anyone wants to chat, my Skype name is:

cailincallahan

It's free to set up and account, free to talk to other Skype accounts, and only 2 cents a minute to call landlines and cell phones. So get on it people, this is the wave of the future!

MmMmMulberries!

Headed to the Organic Mulberry Farm Cafe for breakfast. GOOD coffee and ammmaazing mulberry pancakes. I neglected the butter and dressed my pancake with honey and fresh lime. Simply delicious.

Last Day, Lead Climbing.

Last Day, Lead Climbing.

I woke up and already felt defeated. My whole body ached - every muscle, every bone. My fingers were beginning to get irritated and infected. As I attempted to get out of bed, I felt like a 90 year old lady! I made my way to my porch and did about an hour of mellow, restorative yoga. Breathe, stretch, breathe, stretch, breathe, stretch. My breakfasts have been fruit, yogurt and muesli- but this morning I also had scrambled eggs-- protein! Yeeew! TukTuk ride, long walk and them we arrive, at the same place as the day before. Several levels for climbing, and a good 4A to learn how to lead on. My first run up was just Top Roping...so my instructor had already climbed up, set the line in the anchors, and this was gonna be a piece of cake. Well it took me twice as long as it shouldve, because I was already shaking about the idea of going up this in a few minutes with no safety net! My life depended on me and my ability for the first time instead of my guide! Bah! Shitty climb, but Yong insists that I'm ready to do my Lead Climbing run. "belay on?", "on belay". "climbing?", "climb on". And off I went. Three meters up, attached to nothing. Then I set my first quick draw into an anchor, secured my rope and took a deep breath. Climbed 3 meters more and then set my second quick draw into the anchor, then my rope. One more anchor and then- the top. My arms were shaking, my legs were shaking, my palms were sweating, and I just trusted in my legs to take the final, BIG STEP towards the top anchor. Got it! Secured my safety sling (carabeener) into the top anchor, tied a safety knot, untied my original figure 8, looped it through the top anchor, retied. Untied my safety knot and then came down. Success!! I did it again, in half the time that the first run tool me. Once again we had local food for lunch! My favorite...the roasted tomato, shallot and chili dip, as well as sticky rice, fermented spring onions, a sausage and some little roasted birdies. Mmmm, so delicious. After lunch I decided that I didn't trust my tired body to do more lead climbing runs, so instead I tested myself with a challenging 6A+. First time was a breeze...even Yong commented on how impressed he was. Gave it a second run and this was pathetic. My arms and hands were shot. Made it to the top but it was forced and sloppy. Called it a day around 4pm, did some yoga in the pasture on the way home, and then jumped in the river by my hut when I got back to town.

It's now 8am on tuesday- my first day off from climbing. I'm really missing the climbing today, but my body DEFINITELY needs a break. Moderation, Cailin! This is something that I struggle with. Laying in the hammock on my porch, enjoying the chilly morning. My plans for today: absolutely nothing. One point in time Linda and I are going to ride bikes to the Organic Mulberry Farm for mulberry pancakes, but other than that I don't plan to leave this hammock! Tomorrow we head to the capital, and Saturday I'm of for Indonesia!

Rock Climbing Day 2

Rock Climbing Day 2:

After some fresh fruit, yogurt and muesli, i met Yong @ the Green Discovery office. We hopped into a TukTuk and drove several kilometers down the road. We hopped out, crossed the SKETCHIEST bamboo "bridge" and then walked a few kilometers more through a small village, sugar cane farms, and herds of cows. The backdrop-- huge, beautiful limestone cliffs. As we walked I was a little bit worried about my second day. My body was still pretty tired and I was a bit discouraged from my last climb of the day before-- only making it half way and slicing up my fingers. Today I had all of my fingers taped, and nearly all of my body was rubbed down with tiger balm. Thankfully we were in the SHADE today! My first two climbs were a level 4. The day before my first ever experience climbing was on a 5a, my second on a 6. So...this was good for me!! I made it up pretty quickly and then climbed it again from a different angle. Getting through this swiftly and successfully gave me the confidence that I needed. I did two climbs on a 5A and two climbs on a 5B. I didn't fall, I never needed to just hang and take a break, and I made it to the top of each one. And really- I wasn't scared at all. My biggest emotion was frustration...when I was stuck to the side of the wall with no idea where to grab next, or where to place my next step. This is purely my ego-- not ever wanting to be a "beginner" hahaha. After 6 climbs we finally took a LONG lunch break. My arms were fucking shot. My fingers hurt. And my whole body was shaking. I was stoked on lunch- as discussed and promised, Yong didn't make me a "tourist" lunch-- he brought LOCAL LAO food. On the menu was grilled catfish, fermented cabbage and spring onions (which had a VERY potent smell), cured buffalo skin (odd appearance and texture, decent taste- but not my cup of tea), sausage, sticky rice and jaew roasted tomatoe and chili dip. Oh yeah, some of those yummy spring-roll-esque things that I had at the morning market in Luang Prabang. We sat and enjoyed our lunch by a wall/cave that is level 7A...very difficult. Marcus from Switzerland, Mike from California and two guys from New Zealand were climbing this seemingly impossible scenario. Mike is great-- he lives in northern Cali and then works 6 months in yosemite. He is soft spoken, sweet and buff. He is an avid rock climber and the most advanced of the bunch. He did the lead climbing on this bit. Lead climbing means you climb without the safety of a rope and quick grabs. It's YOUR job to free climb and set up the quick grabs for the others To hook into. Marcus is the least advanced- but god bless him- he gave this difficult run a go...several times, with no success. The guys from New Zealand are pretty damn good climbers and though I didn't get their names, they were good guys as well. It was so relaxing and enjoyable to eat a delicious Lao spread in the company of such fine Human beings. One thing that I really like about climbing, which is different from surfing, is the lack of ego. Even when I was climbing the easy level 4, everyone cheered me on and offered me Advice or pointers ("try for that pinch by your left hand..."). After lunch I ran up the 5B again, and felt pretty beat. Yong suggested we try the 6A before heading home, and though my body cried no, my ego said yes. One more climb, 6A, don't quit now!! Well, half way up the very steep, very difficult wall my body told me to F-off. Completed exhausted and defeated I yelled to Yong, "you got me?!?!?!", and the second that he said yes I let go. I probably shouldve saved time and strength and called it quits before this wall, but I had to atleast Try. We packed up, trekked out, made it safely across the bamboo bridge and then the TukTuk dropped me at my bridge. I crossed the bridge then tossed my bag. Clothes and all I walked into the river and laid down. Goddamn, it felt amazing!! Going to have a mellow night...rest up for my 3rd and final day of rock climbing. I'll be learning how to LEAD CLIMB!! After talking to all the guys I think im going to invest in a harness and sneakers-- make this a full time hobby. I'm hooked. Terrified of heights? Who...me?!?! Never.

Falang.

Falang means "foreigner" in Lao.

Today when climbing, my adoring teacher Yong invited me along to a festival in town, an annual event, only Lao people. I asked if it was okay of i brought Linda along, and he said it was fine. We agreed to meet at the climbing headquarters at 8pm. We arrived and out of a thousand people, Linda and I were the only white people there. EVERYONE stared at us....EVERYONE: monks, women, men, children, and especially young guys. We played some typical festival games like throwing darts at balloons and such. Then we grabbed a table and posted up. Their was a band playing, food, and of course-- Beer Lao. We were only there for a few hours, but we learned heaps about the Lao culture. For example, you pour someone a cup of your bottle of beer. They are supposed to finish it and then hand the cup back to you and say thank you. If they don't finish the cup it's rude- and You don't finish the beer...you just pour the rest out. So, it's not unusual to share cups, but it's not okay to share whats inside the cup. Also, dancing. You only dance in Laos if someone asks you. They ask by coming up to you, placing their hands in prayer, and bowing to you. Women don't ask men, men ask the women. And Lao men are very shy, so if a man asks you it is Extremely rude to decline. When you approach the dance floor, you don't make eye contact- especially when you're dancing. To make eye contact is scandalous. So everyone is slowing stepping around a big circle that has formed, twirling their wrists, not looking at one another. So random. Linda and I danced a fair amount and just cracked up at the slow, disconnected "dance" (or rather, a walk). We drank bottomless cups of Beer Lao. We snacked on BBQ'd crickets served with lime leaves, dried squid, fried meatballs with lemongrass, watermelon seeds and sweet popcorn. To say that we were popular with the Lao crowd would be an understatement. I think that we were the highlight of the festival- much to Yong's delight. He had a smile from ear to ear all night as he told everyone that we were with him. Linda and I called it quits around midnight-- danced out, snacked out, and a bit drunk. Tomorrow is day 2 of climbing...but Yong and I agreed on starting our excursion around 10am. An extra hour of sleep will do us both good...

Rock Climbing Day 1

Wow. Rock climbing. THe gnarliest thing ive ever done. We climbed a huge limestone cliff just to GET to the rockclimbing. I had about 30minutes of safety and lessons before I climbed to the top of this HUGE fucking limestone cliff. STRAIGHT up. There is no "rock wall" to practice on, just the sheer cliff in mother nature. I was so scared, hysterical giggles...but I did it. Theres been a few times in my life that I've felt insanely proud of myself, and this was one of those moments. Wow. For a girl who is terrified of heights I did it. Cut my fingers pretty bad on my second climb {the first was a 5A, my second was a 6B...this is difficult, not for beginners}. My arms were exhausted and my whole body ached, the sunwas beating down, and I just got a bit sloppy, slicing the skin off my fingers on my left hand when I tried to grab one of the JUGS {there are jugs, underhangs, left cling, right cling and pinches}. I called it a day early because I still wanted to have some energy for the next two days. It was awesome. Terrifying and soooo very difficult, but awesome. Tomorrow I use my legs more and rely less on my arms -- I have to stop POWERING my way up. I'm going to tape up my fingers and try to channel my inner "fearlessness". Heading out now with my guide, "john". Hes a few inches shorter than me, with a ginormous smile. He's a 24 year old Lao whoLOOOOOVESSS music. He invited me to the village for a big festival tonight. It's going to be an authentic good time.

Two more days to go....

And just like that...

As Forrest Gump said, "...and just like that, the rain stopped."

Halle-fuckin-lujah! Just as I was approaching insanity the hard downpour turned into a drizzle and the sun began to make it's way out from behind the clouds. Vang Vieng is actually quite beautiful when you are able to look around instead of looking at your feet- trying to dodge man-eating puddles. We had a relaxing afternoon just cruising around town. We had a full "comfort" day, trying to shake the bad mood and get back to our happy selves. We watched twilight, ate pizza and drank beer. In the evening we had cheeseburgers and french fries, and played endless rounds of Shithead. I managed to book myself a 3 day rock climbing course. No one else has enrolled, so for $150 I have 3 days of one on one instruction, along with lunch and equipment. No "rock wall" here, just the real deal from mother nature. But still, even after a semi-rain-free-day, I don't really like Laos. And neither does Linda. She put it right when we were chatting this evening before bed...

"Cailin, I just don't understand. Everyone is so excited about Laos-- but I hate it. I feel guilty, like I'm doing something wrong... But im trying, and I just don't like it."

Linda, I fully agree. Keeping our chins up though and despite our situation we will have a good time. Tonight we opted out of the party - instead we relaxed in the room, talking about everything from love to farts. So much of a place isn't where you are but who you're with. Im thankful to have Linda with me here in Laos...im quite sure I'd be sad and lonesome without her!

When All Else Fails...

When all else fails....
When the rain won't stop...
When you're sad and cold...

Drink beer. Eat pizza. Watch Twilight!

Hoooooray! Found a bar with a binder full of movies...and guess what, they have twilight!! Alot of people in the bar aren't happy with my movie choice, all of them coming down off of last nights high, but I don't care. TWILIGHT TWILIGHT TWILIGHT... I LOOOVE YOU.

F*ing Hatefest Continues...

I have been in Laos for 9 days now. I've had 2 good days-- days of food and complete relaxation. For the past 7 days it's been raining. I cannot stress to you about the AMOUNT of rain and the INTENSITY of rain. It's COLD and suppressive and has everyone on the brink of hysteria. I'm trying to be Suzie optimistic, but these conditions are paralyzing. After a hellacious, freezing, uncomfortable 7 hour drive, we arrived in Vang Vieng. Linda was carsick the whole twisty, twurvy, bumpy ride and I was a severely nauseous myself- and I Never get car sick. Vang Vieng wasn't at the top of my list as a place to go. The thing to do here is Tubing. You rent a tube, float down the river, and get insanely "pissed". You get a free joint with your 'bucket' of booze. Most young travelers you meet say that this event was the highlight of their trip. Those of you that know me KNOW that this is NOT my cup of tea. When we arrived last night we ran into my German friend Philipp. He said that everyone in town starts drinking When they wake up around 1-2pm. You see them at dinner, "oh man im so wasted, I need to eat some food". After dinner when you're back home, you pass the communal bathrooms and everyone is throwing up. They take a nap and then they are out on the town at night for round 2. This is the usual behavior, so now that it's nonstop rain- the drinking has intensified. Philipp said that he's leaving for Vietnam early. All there is to do here is tubing, rock climbing, or trekking-- none of which can be done in the rain. Every restaurant in this town plays FRIENDS or FAMILY GUY (truly a stoners paradise). Philipp says that over his past few days here that he has watched EVERY episode and can't stomach anymore. I'm feel like I'm stuck, and I hate that feeling. Honestly, I don't like Laos. If it was sunny I could keep myself occupied with adventure, but it's not. Every encounter I have with someone from Laos, they try to rip me off. Most of the travelers here are different from those I met in Cambodia and northern Thailand- they are young backpackers here to "get fucked up". I'm 9 days away from my Bangkok flight to Bali...but 9 days is a long time. Friendships and love affairs can happen in less than this while traveling. I KNOW that I don't want to spend all 9 days in Vang Vieng, even if the sun eventually shows itself. I don't want To be cold anymore, and I don't care to be drunk all day. Ideally I would like to snap my fingers and be back in Pai. I'd have my Wicked Omlette for breakfast @ the Witching Well, hang by the river in the afternoon. Do some yoga and play some guitar. I'd have maasaman curry @ Na's and then have a drink and play some music in the evening at Buffalo Exchange. But I guess that this is what traveling is about. Seeing all of it. Some of it you like, some of it you loathe. You take away some of this and some of that and you carry it with you forever. Now I know that there is a little slice of heaven waiting for me in northern Thailand and that Laos is somewhere that I can say "yeah, I've been there...". Say a little prayer that this rain stops or atleast eases up a bit....

Thank God for Linda and thank God for cardgames like shithead....

Side note: woke up this morning, freezing- more rain. Said the F word about 50times. My apologies. I only made my "no swear word" about 2days

Rain Rain Go Away

Rain Rain Go Away

Though monsoon season is still a month away, I think it's come early this year. Today was the third day of nonstop rain. It rains all day and all through the night. Yesterday and today it was torrential downpour-- rain that was just endless. As I lay in bed right now typing up this blog, the sound of the rain outside my window is deafening. There are moments when the buckets turn to a drizzle, but there hasn't been a dry moment for days and there doesn't appear to be one in sight. And it's cold....like FREEEEEEEZING cold. I'm layering clothes- two pants, several shirts, all my scarves. All the research I did told me that southeast is HOT this time of year, and very very dry. When you are living out of one small rucksack for months at a time, every inch of space counts. SO: I left out warm clothes (hoodies, longsleeves, etc.) and my rain coat. I debated packing it, but based on the information I had, it would be unnecessary and just take up room. Well I'll be damned. I've been soaking wet for 3 days, with mud splattered up the backs of my legs and pants from my flip flops. I've been chilled down to the bone (except when in the sauna) and I'm even getting a little sniffle. I've doubled up in vitamin c and I'm trying to change out of my wet clothes as often as possible. What is it that you want to do on a rainy day?? Linda and I both agreed- relax and watch a movie. Well lucky us, the bar up the street shows movies once a week and tonights movie was PULP FICTION. Pulp Fiction is an American classic, so I was glad to be able to share it with Linda. For 50,000kip you got a "ticket": a seat and a beer. Not a bad deal. The movie was better than I remember and it was great to relax and settle into some Cinema-it's been over 2 months. It's the small comforts from home like this that are really nice from time to time. Aside from the movie, we did alot of nothing today- and it was awesome. We woke up late and had a long breakfast on the Mekong. Linda hit up the Internet cafe while I went to deal with the whole bike fiasco. Me and a doZen Lao people negotiating a price for my "stolen" bike. They started at 250, and after some serious haggling I gave the woman $50usd. It was 50 bucks more than I wanted to part with, but shit happens and atleast I didnt have to pay what she was originally asking. Afterwards I decided I'd skip lunch and use that money to get my legs waxed. Ive been growing out the hair on my legs for over 2 weeks so I could get em done- and Linda was embarassed to be seen with me because they were so hairy. Well nearly two hours of torture later I finally said enough is enough. They only got the front of my legs, from the knee down. And nearly half of those hairs were plucked, not waxed. So now 1/4 of my legs are semi-waxed, the rest...very hairy. Atleast it only cost me $3. Scooped up Linda, filled her in about my painful experience, and we went for lunch. Enjoyed a lovely meal, shared a beer, and played some Shithead. Then, we went from lunch to coffee. Following coffee was the fabulous sauna, and then grilled fish for dinner at the market. Topped off with pulp fiction and now we're going to bed. Tomorrow we head to Vang Vieng. I've heard mixed reviews, so I'm hoping that it's a good time-- or atleast that theres no rain.....

Linda is Here!

My favorite Dutch woman is here! Rejoice!! I stood in the rain for one hour yesterday, waiting for her slow boat to arrive. When she stepped off the boat I screamed LINDDDDAAA! bah! So excited. We walked through the cold, pouring rain back to our guesthouse - a new guesthouse, where they don't steal your bicycle. I talked her ear off for the first hour- barely taking a breath. We've only known eachother 2 weeks, and been apart for four days, but I was so excited to see her that I almost burst with joy! I drug her off to the herbal sauna, already laughing because I knew what shed say once we got there. "Fuck! this is HOT!". Hahaha. Oh Linda. She stuck it for a full hour and actually really enjoyed herself, asking if we could return the following day. The skies had opened up, literally dumping buckets. It was freezing cold and we were sopping wet. Linda looks at me and says "what the F is going on?!?" bah. We hail a TukTuk (Whig are quite expensive, and still we are completely saturated by the time we reach the night market for food. Oh well. We shivered our way through our delicious, super inexpensive meals and then decided to head back to the safe dry warm haven of our guesthouse. Split a big Beer Lao with Linda, played some shithead and went to bed early. Hooray, Linda is here!!

Happy Again.

Linda is here. Beer is cold. Banana Bread is good. Stolen bike? What bike...? Life is good.

Fuckall Hatefest.

Fuckall Hatefest.

I average one meltdown every three weeks when I'm traveling. The meltdown usually lasts only a day or so, but it's pretty gnarly and, I think, necessary. The whole "what goes up must come down" theory. Balance. Well today is apparently that day. Fuck Fuck Fuck Fuck Fuck. Yep, I said it- and I'll probably say it 200times more before noon (it's now 11am). Woke up at 6am, watched the monks procession from my deck and enjoyed the coolness and serenity that the light rain offered up. Met a friend at 730am for breakfast which was just a short walk from my house. Around 9 I returned home and wanted to go for coffee and some WiFi. When I went to unlock my bike, I noticed that it wasn't there. Confused, I did a lap around the Guesthouse. Where was my beloved hot pink bike hiding?! Finally I ask the owner where my bike was. "oh, stolen. Sorry." what the fuck? You're kidding right? It was locked up, I carried it up the flight of stairs and laid it alongside the house. At night we close the gate and lock it up. So you mean to tell me that someone hopped the fence, took my bike, threw it over and then climbed over?! Oh - and crazy enough, they didn't take any bikes that belonged to the owner?! Yep, that's some fishy bullshit. In the pouring rain i walked barefoot to where I rented the bike the day before. When I told them they didn't fret they just said that I had to buy a new bike. Oh-no-way-Jose!!! I told them that I was going to talk to my guesthouse again and then the police. Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck. Walked to the coffee shop- soaking wet and muddy from head to toe. Called my mom and didn't get any comfort from That conversation. Cried a bit into my up of coffee and then stopped being sad and got really pissed off. Like, epically pissed off-- insanely pissed off. I just came off of the most amazing day...how dare some motherfucker taint my Lao experience. You know the saying "one bad apple"...yep, well now I no longer love Laos. In fact, at the moment I loathe Laos. I cannot wait to leave. Dear Laos, I'm not recommending you to anyone. Fuck you for stealing my bike. Love, Cailin. Thank God that my fun dutch friend Linda arrives today or I would be miserable and all alone in my ex-favorite-town. (sina and the crew left this AM). I have an hour left of this hatefest I hope, and then it will pass. Hopefully this goddamn rain will do the same...

Asian Beauty Secret #1

Asian Beauty Secret #1:

I've always wondered why Asians have the most impeccably beautiful skin...and now I know. Herbal Saunas. I have never been so beautiful in my whole life. Seriously. My healthy skin is radiating and my whole body is as smooth as the day I was born. And it's not just external, internally I feel superb as well! Yesterday when I returned to the sauna I brought along a pumice stone and some deep conditioner. In the steaming hot sauna as the sweat poured off and I inhaled the aromas of fresh lemongrass and eucalyptus, I scrubbed and scrubbed. Honestly, there wasn't much left TO scrub- I'd scrubbed off Several layers of dirt at my sauna session the night before. Still, I went at it with an indescribable enthusiasm. When I'd retreat to the deck for some fresh air, as you do, I'd have a cup of hot tea. The huge urns of hot tea are simply outstanding. I have no idea what kind of tea it is, but it's damn delicious. I get cramps hours later, so I'm guessing that there is a touch of senna in it... Anyways, you sit- sip- cool down and socialize. And then you do it all again. Women are rubbing milk, creams, exfoliants and such on their bodies. They splash some of the tea from their cup onto their faces and arms, scrub at their bodies with loofas and pumice and washcloths. And all of them- absolutely stunning...their skin, the picture of health. Most of the women there were familiar faces, all having been there the night before as well. I'm guessing that I'll see them tonight as well. Though its only 6am, I'm already looking forward to my evening sauna session: naked, wrapped in a sarong, sweating and scrubbing and loving life.