Good People make for Good Times.

I'm hooked. A junkie in the making. I want to climb rocks....not now, Right now.

I ran into the boys on day 4, my first day of rest after 3 days of climbing. They were headed to climb somewhere across the river and they said that they'd be out at the Q-Bar later in the evening. We met up that night and of course we talked about climbing. I had a million questions, and they were eager to provide me with answers. Shane asked if I wanted to join them for a climb the next day- they were headed to a place 20k outside of town. He told me to just rent a harness and some shoes, and to meet them at their breakfast spot on the corner at 9am. I could barely sleep. These guys are ammmaazing climbers-- so I was excited that I was even allowed to tag along-- but better yet I was going to get in some climbing as well!!! I woke before 7, had coffee and breakfast, rented my gear and met up with the boys. Let me introduce you:

Mike: mike is 30years old...from upstate PA, but has been living on the west coast for years now. He has his masters degree in environmental education and he is a diehard outdoorsmen. For 6 months of the year he works in Yosemite National Park and the other 6 in northern California or traveling around the globe. He is extremely docile, lover not a fighter, and patient-beyond-comprehension. He is humble and the type of person that always says "bless you" after you sneeze. He's a goddamn powerhouse, 185pounds of sheer muscle...a climbing machine. He dances his way up the rocks. Its fascinating. I'll be visiting him this fall in yosemite for some free camping, hotsprings, and of course- climbing!

Marcus: Marcus is 31 years old, from Switzerland. He is an accomplished graphic designer, musician, cycler, hiker, snowboarder, surfer and climber. As soon as you think you've figured out Marcus he throws a curve ball at you-- he's probably also a master painter and famous philosopher! He has a hand in everything! I love Marcus's attitude-- "no probbblem". He was the one belaying me on a difficult climb the other day. I was up there for awhile, and had to say TAKE a couple times...just hanging there trying to figure out a route to the top. I was cussing up a storm and apologizing for being a shitty climber. He always just gave a little smile and a shrug, replying "...No Probbblem".

Shane: Shane is from new Zealand. He is quite tall with broad full shoulders and an amazing chiseled back. He is extremely quiet and he comes off as serious-- though I get the impression that when he's around his buddies that he's anything BUT serious. He's an athlete through and through- and he's done everything from racing dirtbikes to surfing. The first few days that I hung out with Shane I thought that he hated me. Or atleast was annoyed by me and my constant banter. On the final day, in the final hours, I realized that this wasnt the case at all. Shane is shy and considerate and patient-- I get the impression that not only is he a loyal climbing partner, but the most loyal of friends. When he climbs he is quiet and calculated, each move thought out. If we had a few more days together I think that he would have come out of his shell a bit. No worries though, I'll be seeing him again.

Alon: Alon is Israeli, and is Shanes travel partner and climbing partner. They met in New Zealand and they've been climbing and Traveling together ever since. The compliment eachother like peanutbutter and jelly-- it seems as if they've been friends since birth. Alon is also an amazing climber-- but he shouts cuss words when he falls and he does NOT like words of encouragement while climbing. He takes full advantage of me being gullible...telling tall tales that get me going. "I just met my parents in Bangkok". "REALLY?!? no way!!!". Hahaha. Oh me oh my.

Last but not least,
Ahoud: Ahoud is also Israeli. He met Shane and Alon while climbing in Ton Sai (Thailand), and they reconnected in Vang Vieng. He's the most outgoing of the bunch- with a wicked sense of humor and sharp wit. Amidst the serious climbers, Ahoud is cursing and yelling and talking about cigarettes and beer. I love him. He also gives one of the best hugs I've ever gotten. He always says exactly what's on his mind and doesn't take any shit. He likes to climb, but he doesn't live and breathe it like the other guys do. He jokes that he's "retired" from the sport.

This group of gentlemen really MADE not only my trip to Van Vieng, but to all of Laos. I was having a "fuckall hatefest" until I started climbing and until I met the boys. Our final day together consisted of lounging all day by a blue lagoon, dipping in the cold water and relaxing. We had an EPIC Lao BBQ for dinner and then dancing and drinks @ the Q Bar to finish up the night. Such a lovely group of human beings, who were patient and extremely helpful in assisting me to wrap my head around this new sport. I'm so grateful to have crosses paths with them, and I can't wait for round 2....perhaps next year in Ton Sai!!

Linda and I have arrived now in the capital. We are drinking GOOD coffee at a proper CAFE, and later we are going to enjoy some wine and dinner at one of Vientianes many amazing French restaurants. Laos wasn't so bad afterall thanks to a few special travelers. Hopefully ill be just as lucky when I arrive in Indonesia. Two months of surfing, yoga, music and healthy living. Leaving this adventure and on to the next....

-John Hope Franklin : "We must go beyond textbooks, go out into the bypaths and untrodden depths of the wilderness and travel and explore and tell the world the glories of our journey."

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Last Day, Lead Climbing.

Last Day, Lead Climbing.

I woke up and already felt defeated. My whole body ached - every muscle, every bone. My fingers were beginning to get irritated and infected. As I attempted to get out of bed, I felt like a 90 year old lady! I made my way to my porch and did about an hour of mellow, restorative yoga. Breathe, stretch, breathe, stretch, breathe, stretch. My breakfasts have been fruit, yogurt and muesli- but this morning I also had scrambled eggs-- protein! Yeeew! TukTuk ride, long walk and them we arrive, at the same place as the day before. Several levels for climbing, and a good 4A to learn how to lead on. My first run up was just Top Roping...so my instructor had already climbed up, set the line in the anchors, and this was gonna be a piece of cake. Well it took me twice as long as it shouldve, because I was already shaking about the idea of going up this in a few minutes with no safety net! My life depended on me and my ability for the first time instead of my guide! Bah! Shitty climb, but Yong insists that I'm ready to do my Lead Climbing run. "belay on?", "on belay". "climbing?", "climb on". And off I went. Three meters up, attached to nothing. Then I set my first quick draw into an anchor, secured my rope and took a deep breath. Climbed 3 meters more and then set my second quick draw into the anchor, then my rope. One more anchor and then- the top. My arms were shaking, my legs were shaking, my palms were sweating, and I just trusted in my legs to take the final, BIG STEP towards the top anchor. Got it! Secured my safety sling (carabeener) into the top anchor, tied a safety knot, untied my original figure 8, looped it through the top anchor, retied. Untied my safety knot and then came down. Success!! I did it again, in half the time that the first run tool me. Once again we had local food for lunch! My favorite...the roasted tomato, shallot and chili dip, as well as sticky rice, fermented spring onions, a sausage and some little roasted birdies. Mmmm, so delicious. After lunch I decided that I didn't trust my tired body to do more lead climbing runs, so instead I tested myself with a challenging 6A+. First time was a breeze...even Yong commented on how impressed he was. Gave it a second run and this was pathetic. My arms and hands were shot. Made it to the top but it was forced and sloppy. Called it a day around 4pm, did some yoga in the pasture on the way home, and then jumped in the river by my hut when I got back to town.

It's now 8am on tuesday- my first day off from climbing. I'm really missing the climbing today, but my body DEFINITELY needs a break. Moderation, Cailin! This is something that I struggle with. Laying in the hammock on my porch, enjoying the chilly morning. My plans for today: absolutely nothing. One point in time Linda and I are going to ride bikes to the Organic Mulberry Farm for mulberry pancakes, but other than that I don't plan to leave this hammock! Tomorrow we head to the capital, and Saturday I'm of for Indonesia!

Rock Climbing Day 2

Rock Climbing Day 2:

After some fresh fruit, yogurt and muesli, i met Yong @ the Green Discovery office. We hopped into a TukTuk and drove several kilometers down the road. We hopped out, crossed the SKETCHIEST bamboo "bridge" and then walked a few kilometers more through a small village, sugar cane farms, and herds of cows. The backdrop-- huge, beautiful limestone cliffs. As we walked I was a little bit worried about my second day. My body was still pretty tired and I was a bit discouraged from my last climb of the day before-- only making it half way and slicing up my fingers. Today I had all of my fingers taped, and nearly all of my body was rubbed down with tiger balm. Thankfully we were in the SHADE today! My first two climbs were a level 4. The day before my first ever experience climbing was on a 5a, my second on a 6. So...this was good for me!! I made it up pretty quickly and then climbed it again from a different angle. Getting through this swiftly and successfully gave me the confidence that I needed. I did two climbs on a 5A and two climbs on a 5B. I didn't fall, I never needed to just hang and take a break, and I made it to the top of each one. And really- I wasn't scared at all. My biggest emotion was frustration...when I was stuck to the side of the wall with no idea where to grab next, or where to place my next step. This is purely my ego-- not ever wanting to be a "beginner" hahaha. After 6 climbs we finally took a LONG lunch break. My arms were fucking shot. My fingers hurt. And my whole body was shaking. I was stoked on lunch- as discussed and promised, Yong didn't make me a "tourist" lunch-- he brought LOCAL LAO food. On the menu was grilled catfish, fermented cabbage and spring onions (which had a VERY potent smell), cured buffalo skin (odd appearance and texture, decent taste- but not my cup of tea), sausage, sticky rice and jaew roasted tomatoe and chili dip. Oh yeah, some of those yummy spring-roll-esque things that I had at the morning market in Luang Prabang. We sat and enjoyed our lunch by a wall/cave that is level 7A...very difficult. Marcus from Switzerland, Mike from California and two guys from New Zealand were climbing this seemingly impossible scenario. Mike is great-- he lives in northern Cali and then works 6 months in yosemite. He is soft spoken, sweet and buff. He is an avid rock climber and the most advanced of the bunch. He did the lead climbing on this bit. Lead climbing means you climb without the safety of a rope and quick grabs. It's YOUR job to free climb and set up the quick grabs for the others To hook into. Marcus is the least advanced- but god bless him- he gave this difficult run a go...several times, with no success. The guys from New Zealand are pretty damn good climbers and though I didn't get their names, they were good guys as well. It was so relaxing and enjoyable to eat a delicious Lao spread in the company of such fine Human beings. One thing that I really like about climbing, which is different from surfing, is the lack of ego. Even when I was climbing the easy level 4, everyone cheered me on and offered me Advice or pointers ("try for that pinch by your left hand..."). After lunch I ran up the 5B again, and felt pretty beat. Yong suggested we try the 6A before heading home, and though my body cried no, my ego said yes. One more climb, 6A, don't quit now!! Well, half way up the very steep, very difficult wall my body told me to F-off. Completed exhausted and defeated I yelled to Yong, "you got me?!?!?!", and the second that he said yes I let go. I probably shouldve saved time and strength and called it quits before this wall, but I had to atleast Try. We packed up, trekked out, made it safely across the bamboo bridge and then the TukTuk dropped me at my bridge. I crossed the bridge then tossed my bag. Clothes and all I walked into the river and laid down. Goddamn, it felt amazing!! Going to have a mellow night...rest up for my 3rd and final day of rock climbing. I'll be learning how to LEAD CLIMB!! After talking to all the guys I think im going to invest in a harness and sneakers-- make this a full time hobby. I'm hooked. Terrified of heights? Who...me?!?! Never.

Falang.

Falang means "foreigner" in Lao.

Today when climbing, my adoring teacher Yong invited me along to a festival in town, an annual event, only Lao people. I asked if it was okay of i brought Linda along, and he said it was fine. We agreed to meet at the climbing headquarters at 8pm. We arrived and out of a thousand people, Linda and I were the only white people there. EVERYONE stared at us....EVERYONE: monks, women, men, children, and especially young guys. We played some typical festival games like throwing darts at balloons and such. Then we grabbed a table and posted up. Their was a band playing, food, and of course-- Beer Lao. We were only there for a few hours, but we learned heaps about the Lao culture. For example, you pour someone a cup of your bottle of beer. They are supposed to finish it and then hand the cup back to you and say thank you. If they don't finish the cup it's rude- and You don't finish the beer...you just pour the rest out. So, it's not unusual to share cups, but it's not okay to share whats inside the cup. Also, dancing. You only dance in Laos if someone asks you. They ask by coming up to you, placing their hands in prayer, and bowing to you. Women don't ask men, men ask the women. And Lao men are very shy, so if a man asks you it is Extremely rude to decline. When you approach the dance floor, you don't make eye contact- especially when you're dancing. To make eye contact is scandalous. So everyone is slowing stepping around a big circle that has formed, twirling their wrists, not looking at one another. So random. Linda and I danced a fair amount and just cracked up at the slow, disconnected "dance" (or rather, a walk). We drank bottomless cups of Beer Lao. We snacked on BBQ'd crickets served with lime leaves, dried squid, fried meatballs with lemongrass, watermelon seeds and sweet popcorn. To say that we were popular with the Lao crowd would be an understatement. I think that we were the highlight of the festival- much to Yong's delight. He had a smile from ear to ear all night as he told everyone that we were with him. Linda and I called it quits around midnight-- danced out, snacked out, and a bit drunk. Tomorrow is day 2 of climbing...but Yong and I agreed on starting our excursion around 10am. An extra hour of sleep will do us both good...

Rock Climbing Day 1

Wow. Rock climbing. THe gnarliest thing ive ever done. We climbed a huge limestone cliff just to GET to the rockclimbing. I had about 30minutes of safety and lessons before I climbed to the top of this HUGE fucking limestone cliff. STRAIGHT up. There is no "rock wall" to practice on, just the sheer cliff in mother nature. I was so scared, hysterical giggles...but I did it. Theres been a few times in my life that I've felt insanely proud of myself, and this was one of those moments. Wow. For a girl who is terrified of heights I did it. Cut my fingers pretty bad on my second climb {the first was a 5A, my second was a 6B...this is difficult, not for beginners}. My arms were exhausted and my whole body ached, the sunwas beating down, and I just got a bit sloppy, slicing the skin off my fingers on my left hand when I tried to grab one of the JUGS {there are jugs, underhangs, left cling, right cling and pinches}. I called it a day early because I still wanted to have some energy for the next two days. It was awesome. Terrifying and soooo very difficult, but awesome. Tomorrow I use my legs more and rely less on my arms -- I have to stop POWERING my way up. I'm going to tape up my fingers and try to channel my inner "fearlessness". Heading out now with my guide, "john". Hes a few inches shorter than me, with a ginormous smile. He's a 24 year old Lao whoLOOOOOVESSS music. He invited me to the village for a big festival tonight. It's going to be an authentic good time.

Two more days to go....