not all who wander are lost.

Wednesday, February 19, 2014

Elegance in Motion.


  1. 1.
    pleasingly graceful and stylish in appearance or manner.

Last year I only surfed Lazy Left and Plantations because everyone told me that I couldn't surf Rams with a longboard...that Rams was too scary, too shallow, too fast and too full power for anything other than a short board. Well, I'm glad that this year I decided that I didn't want to listen to the fears of others, and to explore on my own. Because now I surf Rams twice a day. And without sounding too cocky, I own it on a longboard. I can hear my Dad hooting and hollering me into every fast, steep wave that breaks over the shallow reef. I can feel him beaming from ear to ear when I get covered up and when I hang my toes over the nose. The first few times I was out there I was given warnings and skeptic bits of advice to "be careful", by the boys. That was until they saw me catch a wave. And then they bit their tongues. Lazy Left and Plantations are fun, but they're easy. And you can't grow in your comfort zone. I love the adrenaline that this spot offers up, and the skill that it makes me tap into to surf it. I have been having a blast there, and I appreciate the respect that's been given my way. The guys in the line up have been very vocal about how much they enjoy having me out there, and the people on the beach have voiced how much their enjoy watching. A beautiful French woman came up to me the other day, just around sunrise, and told me that she was heading home but she wanted to thank me for sharing my "art" with her...that she had so enjoyed watching me every morning; that I was "elegance" in motion. It's had me smiling for days. Surfing IS my art and I am happy to share it with others. And "elegance" is such a fantastic word, one that I strive to incorporate into all aspects of my life. I hope to speak with elegance, write with elegance, teach with elegance, love with elegance and always be moving from a place of elegance. 

1 comment: