not all who wander are lost.

Sunday, April 24, 2011

World Class.

East Sumbawa. Middle of NOWHERE. Surfers paradise. World Class Waves, smothered with World Class Surfers. There is no girly beach here. Theres no "easy" wave. Theres Lakey Pipe (because its similar to Pipe), Lakey Peak (a crowded, punchy A frame) and Periscopes (which only breaks when its big...and its like a freight train firing across the reef). You MUST be on your A-Game every surf session, or you will drown, get drilled into the reef, or get torn a new one by one of the aggressive Aussie surfers in the lineup. The vibe here is different, lots of "Bro Bro's" around...I have seen countless arguments and aggressive confrontations in the water and I have cautiously kept towards the shoulder while in the lineup. The waves here are super challenging...filling me with anxiety and fear....but the adrenaline rush when you get one is the pay off. Im so glad to be traveling with Barret (aka B or Burrito) as well as Nicole + Patrick, because they are all good surfers and with their encouragement I have taken off on some of the biggest most powerful waves of my life. The swell filling in this week is going to be 10 feet Australian, which means 20 feet. I think for the first time in my life I might just stay on the beach. If the channel was available then Id maybe just float there, but its going to be so big that the channel will be closing out. Better safe than sorry. After this swell passes we are headed to even MORE remote spot than Sumbawa, but less crowded with perfect waves. Life just keeps getting better. Sorry its been so long since my last post, but the one expensive internet cafe is only open while Im in the water. Wish me luck in the upcoming monster swell headed our way. Cheers!

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