not all who wander are lost.

Wednesday, April 27, 2011

Sumbawa Surfing.

week 2 of ear infection.
day 6 of chest cold: congested sinus's, wicked cough, headache.
day 7 of big waves in sumbawa.
1.5hours of internet in the past 168 hours.
missing my parents 26th wedding anniversary party.

add all these up and you get a mild case of homesickness.

the ear infection wont seem to go away. the proper treatment would be to stay out of the waves for a few days, but thats the only thing thats helping me to retain my sanity.

chest being tamed by nightly doses of Benadryl, so atleast im getting a good night sleep. the small price to pay for being knocked out cold is a mild Benadryl hangover the next day.

big waves are exciting. they make you anxious and nervous and completely stoked. BUT you also cant relax in them, your wave count goes down, and you dont get the mellow fun surf that youre accustomed to (ie Cali, Jersey, Costa, etc.). plus the lineup is chock full of gnarly aggressive egotistical Australians and locals.

thankful to not be so connected to the internet anymore, but i DO miss my daily blogging. its such a form of meditation for me...i think i might go oldschool and start journaling. feeling super grateful to have B as a traveling partner - he has been super supportive in the surf and has dealt with my funky mood like a champ. hes an amazing surfer and he coaches me into these big sumbawa bombs...and always keeps an eye out just incase i get worked by a heavy wave. and lately my "happy to be wherever it is that i am" mood has been nowhere to be found. missing my family, unable to find my groove, being sick, and not getting loads of water time has worn my spirit down a bit...but B always knows how to bring a smile to my face and make me laugh. life always seems to deliever to me whatever i need, and Sumbawa without B would be pretty crappy.

well....swell is BUILDING ... BIG BIG BIG, so wish me luck tomorrow. we are going to try for another perfect day at Periscopes, and hopefully for me its a little teeny tiny bit smaller...hahahaha.

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY to my parents, who have had a hellacious year and have come out stronger and happier than ever :) love you guys. <3

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