Success!

While most struggle to stray from the toilet, my rendezvous with two immodium 5 days ago has left me poo-free. Last night I laid in bed, quite concerned- vowing to see a doctor if this kept up much longer. Woke this morning and had some Real coffee, and I was cured!! The Sunrise Instant 3in1 "coffee" that we drank while trekking simply didn't cut it.

Virechay Forest Trek

DAY 3: still no shower, but stoked on 3in1 instant coffee.

Day 1: Virechay Forest Trek
What an amazing day. I'm laying in my army issued hammock with mosquito net, in a remote village somewhere in the forest of Ratanakiri. It took us under 2 hours in a van, down a rough, bumpy, difficult dirt road. Then, we got into very very small, very very thin boats- 3 to a boat. It was a 3 hour boat ride to the village- the most Beautiful boat ride that I have ever been on. We had to get out of the boats a few times, and other times we just sped up and went right up and over the falls! Holy shit. I realized then that this trek was legit. Got to the village- population 56, completely self sustained. Angelic, a absolutely beautiful french girl that is on the trek, brought along a fun little game that she'd bought in the market. It is similar to hackeysak- drop the sac, sub a madmitten looking thing. As ion as we arrives to the village she busted it out and it was a HUGE hit- especially with the kids. We played for well over and hour. We enjoyed a delicious dinner and then sat around a few candles and a BIG bottle of homemade rice wine. Not so much of a bottle, more of a pickle barrel. Huge. You stick three 'straws' in it, and take turns hitting it- 3 at a time. Everyone was in on it. Then we danced and listened to music. The most authentic and badass thing that I've done in some time. And now- slightly buzzed and completely exhausted, in lying in my hammock ready for sleep. We have a long day tomorrow, and a serious hike- so I'll resume the blog tomorrow!

Trek Day 2:
Didn't sleep a wink last night. I was freezing my ass off- literally, my ass was frozen. Despite a very hot day, the temperature in the evening was around 50 degrees- a temperature that all of us were completely unequipped for! I woke atleast once every hour, shivering to death and trying to curl myself into the fetal position in order to conserve my body warmth. At 3am I had to piss so badly that I thought I was going to explode- but I didnt not want to venture out into the cold, or into the pitch black of the forest. Finally got out of bed a little after 5am. I was thankful that some of the villagers were already stirring, and even more thankful that water was being boiled for coffee. The coffee was instant, but beggars cannot be choosers, and after a sleepless night anything would do. Two cups of 3in1 instant coffee later we had some noodles for breakfast and then began our trek. The trek started out with a short boat ride up stream. The boats are fascinating, and the forest is too beautiful for words. Definitely experienced a "spiritual moment" during the morning ride. The hike was Challenging yet rewarding. We did 16km today- uphill, cross streams and through thick brush. We started our journey at 8am and arrived at our camp at 4pm. We stopped once for lunch and a nap, which was lovely. I just love the group I'm with...quality, intelligent, compassionate people. We are having a blast. Enjoyed some 3in1 coffee when we reached our destination and then rinsed off in the river. We sat around, talking and laughing and then ate some dinner. Everyone here is pretty well traveled, so the stories are great. Finished up the evening with a few rounds of cards, and now, for the second night in a row- im the first one to head to bed. It's very cold, there's a spider nest below my hammock and apparently there's rats- oh yeah, and it's really really dark out here. Wishing that my moms hammock was next to mine so that I could "pst pssst" her if I awake from a bad dream, but I'll just have to tough it out. Goodnight everybody.

Day 3:
It's 6:30am- I've been up and outta my hammock for the past hour. Birds are chirping and Gibbons are hollering. Last night I slept in 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, 5 shirts, 2 scarves and one huge headband that I wore covering my face. They provide us with one blanket, but that shit is Childs play- surely not something to keep you warm in the cold jungle. Oh yeah, and before bed I took 2 Benadryl, in hopes of knocking myself out. My whole body was exhausted after our trek, especially my poor knees, so I was praying that these would help. Well, they worked until about 2am. Then I was woken up by the dropping temperatures, the sounds of the forest and my uncomfortable sleeping quarters. Put some music on my headphones and tried to lull myself back to sleep. Woke up an hour and a half later and tried to meditate on warmth, sunshine and a cozy bed. Woke up again a little after 4am, and again had to pee had to pee had to peeeeeeeee!!!! But, outside too cold and too dark. I opted to hold out a little longer. My final hour in bed was a cold and painful one, but at 5:30am I shot outta bed, ran to pee and then warmed myself by the fire that our guide had made. Hallelujah. We are going to have instant noodles and instant coffee again for breakfast, pack up camp- then trek 10km to a boat- 3 hour boat ride and then about an hour and a half bus ride back to town. Yahooooo SUCCESS!

Things I've missed While Trekking:
Iced coffee with sweet milk
Ice cold beer with lunch
Ice cold coca cola after trekking
Pot of hot tea w/ milk in the AM
Peanut butter
Nutella
SKYPE (mom and dad)
Warm blankets

And that's it. Aside from those few beverages and a warm blanket, I'm really enjoying my time here. I dont mind not showering for days at a time, or eating the same thing every day. I feel happy and healthy after a long days hike and enjoy the simplicity of a day of physical exertion and then down time. I have thoroughly enjoyed our evenings around the campfire- talking about places, ideas, religions and food!

When we get back to town, we are all goig to bunchang Annies for some bunchaung! Then we're headed back to Tree Tops for some beers and brandy on our beautiful tree top terrace! The only thing that would make life better right now was if I could take a poo!! The immodium that I took on our bus ride to Ban Lung SEVERAL days ago are taking their job WAY too seriously....

Bunchao.

After a full week of hearing about Gillians favorite food here in Cambodia- I finally got to try it for myself. Bunchoa. My NEW favorite food in the whole wide world. I know, I said that about the coconut rice and bananas, and even before that about the nutella banana crepes- but THIS, this is my new favorite. Hands down. We stopped at a little shack that secretly was named Bunchao Annie...and they served only BUNCHAO!

Bunchao: meat, baby shrimps, sprouts, a few veggies and spices wrapped inside a thin egg pancake- which you tear up and wrap in lettuce and herbs and then dip into a spicy, tangy sauce (that you add peanuts to). It is fucking outstanding. And cheap...2500 reil, about 55 cents. The lettuce, other assorted greens, and herbs come in a huge basket and then you just tear, wrap, create and enjoy.

The ultimate finger food, overwhelming flavor with each bite- amazing.

Budget?

Last night I tossed and turned, stressing about money- regretting some of the lavish meals I enjoyed in Seattle and the nice (expensive) boots I purchased as well. If I'd been a bit more frugal in the states I would be able to live an indulgent life here. Oh well. The past is the past. As I lay stressing in bed, I vowed to start a strict budget. No more $5 dinners or afternoon beers. I actually would be keeping to budget if I weren't traveling around...but bus tickets, TukTuks and adventures add up. Well- I purchase a delightful Khmer sandwich for breakfast for only 3,000reil (about 60 cents)...it was delicious and to budget. Hop, or shall I say Cram, into the van and an hour into it my stomach starts to rumble. Now let me tell you- I only have two fears while traveling; one that is very serious, and the other that would be comical to retell but quite devastating to actually experience. The serious: being raped. The traumatizing to experience but funny to tell: shitting yourself...something that is all to real for travelers in poor countries. So, back to the story- tummy rumbles, so I pop an immodium. Stomach cramps, I panic, pop another i.m. because im having visions of having to climb over a van full of people to throw myself from the van and poo on the side of the road! So much for a budget breakfast. We finally arrive to our destination and I am ecstatic about our lovely accommodations at the Tree Top Eco Lodge. We are in an adorable bungalow that looks straight out of Peter pan- it's hidden in the forest- cute, quaint and peaceful. It's not to my strict budget, 15 a night (7.50ea), but it's still loads cheaper than costa rica. Headed to town now to organize our trek. Organize trek: $100. Damnit, breaking budget. Eat lunch @ Baunchao Annies, Baunchao is only 0.50...back on budget. Walking back to the Tree Top, Gillian and I complain of aches and pains- decide to spend extra day in phnom penh and have a full spa day when we get back from trek. Budget? What budget? I'm now vowing to start that budget once I arrive at the beach in Sihanoukville, and until then I'm going to enjoy my fabulous Eco Lodge, a beer and some pizza, and a spa day...

Share Taxi.

Our share taxi arrived in Kratie only 20minutes late. We heard that it would be tight- but this is impressive- almost like a little clown vehicle with 10clowns inside, only in here we have 22. Yep, 22 people in a regular sized passenger van that would normally fit no more than 15. But not only do we have 22 people- we have a dozen very large travel backpacks, bags of rice, and even a motorbike that has been tied onto the back of the van. In the front seat there are 5 grown men...5! The driver is actually sitting on someones lap. We've jut begun, and have about 4 hours to go. Wish me luck.

Well- the trip took 5 hours. And once we hit the dirt roads, about an hour and a half into the drive, we had to shut the windows to safe ourselves from the dust. It was hot. Quite hot. And no air con. On the way though I friended the 3 boys from Denmark that I was sharing a seat with- and now they'll be trekking with us! It will add to the fun and it will make our cost per person drop. Can't wait!

PapaBear

Having a blast, but definitely missing my mom and dad. I spoke to them this morning, one final chat before I reach Ratanakiri and start trekking into the jungle of northeast Cambodia. They are sown in Key West staying with my uncle sean and had just gotten back from a fishing adventure. After we said our goodbyes, I headed back up to my room and started crying as soon as i closed the door. For someone who'd been given just a few monthsto live, I'm so glad that hes out fishing in Florida. I wish I coulda been there. Love you mom and dad.

Morning on the Mekong

Empty The Glass of Your Desire

RUMI:
Empty The Glass of Your Desire

Join yourself to friends
And know the joy of the soul.
Enter the neighborhood of ruin
With those who drink to the dregs.

Empty the glass of your desire
So that you won't be disgraced.
Stop looking for something out there
And begin seeing within.

Open your arms if you want an embrace.
Break the earthen idols and release the radiance.
Why get involved with a hag like this world?
You know what it will cost.

And three pitiful meals a day
Is all that weapons and violence can earn.
At night when the Beloved comes
Will you be nodding on opium?

If you close your mouth to food,
You can know a sweeter taste.
Our Host is no tyrant. We gather in a circle.
Sit down with us beyond the wheel of time.

Here is the deal; give one life
And receive a hundred.
Stop growling like dogs,
And know the shepards care.

You keep complaining about others
And all they owe?
Well, forget about them;
Just be in His presence.
When the earth is this wide,
Why are you asleep in a prison?
Think of nothin but the source of thought.
Feed the soul; let the body fast.

Avoid knotted ideas;
Untie yourself in a higher world.
Limit your talk
For the sake of timeless communion.

Abandon life and the world,
And find the life OF the world.

Kratie.

Paul-Line taught me how to write my name in Khmer.

Woke this morning with an upset tummy. I've thankfully been diarrhea-free (I tried to think of a polite way to put this but figured that there's no real way)- despite eating all street food and drinking iced beverages. SO- knowing that I had a log bus ride ahead I decided to take some prevent measures (ahem,imodium). Gilly and I were discussing poo and upset stomachs, and she offered up a mantra. Having just come from 5 months in Mama India, she has a mantra for every ailment under the sun. So this morning when I rose at 5:30am for my daily meditation, I repeated the following mantra:

"I freely and easily release the old and joyously welcome the new."

Well don't cha know it, don't cha know-- it worked. 20 minutes of meditation, repeating this mantra, and poo-be-gone! And just in time...cause I've arrived in paradise! Beautiful Kratie!

Kratie is a gorgeous province spanning the magnificent Mekong. In one word, the town is charming. Today we arrived in town a little after noon. We rented a double room with AC (one of the only rooms left) for $15 (7.50ea). Traveling with Gillian is not only more enjoyable, but it's cut some costs as well which is fantastic! Our room is cute and VERY clean with an immaculate bathroom! Our hotel is right on the Mekong and we have a beautiful large balcony and sitting room on the second floor- where I enjoyed relaxing and reading, taking some tea and enjoying the sunset. And theres free WiFi, for which I'm clearly a sucker! Once settled in Gilly and I parted ways for a bit. I cruised throughout town, in and out of the local market and peeking at the menus in town. I stopped along the Mekong for a coconut, and this is where I met my new friend, "Paul-Line". Paulline is a lovely Khmer woman, 35 years old, who speaks about as much English as I speak Khmer!! Our hour long conversation was confusing at times, but we got by through big smiles, charades and fits of laughter. She helped me with my pronunciation of Khmer words, and we even added a few new phrases to my repertoire, my favorite being "som dong muy" ("one coconut please"). Another that I learned was "muh pet" which means friend. I said goodbye and vowed to cone visit my MuhPet, PaulLine, for Som Dong Muy the following morning!! Headed back towards the hotel and stumbled upon a little man selling something in banana leaves. Couldn't understand what was inside, but I was able to understand the price- 500 reil (12 cents) so I just gave it a go. Well- my curiosity paid off because it was the most delicious thing I'd ever tasted! I walked up the road, enjoying my treat, then quickly turning around and hurrying back for one more!!

Met up with Gillian around 4pm. We took some tea upstairs to chat, enjoy the breeze and watch the sunset. We talked about our love for Twilight and how the romance is mesmerizing, we talked about our own love lives and about our upcoming trekking plans in the NE.

Had a loooooong, leisure, chatty and thoroughly enjoyable dinner @ Red Sun Falling - an expat owned place up the street. Amazing Khmer food and delicious "chips" aka French fries.

Wrapping up the night now with a few sips of brandy before hitting the sack. Tomorrow the TukTuk picks us up at 10am for a full day of adventure and dolphins!!

12 Cents.

Banana leaf, stuffed with:

1. Banana, rolled in
2. Rice and shredded coconut

My new favorite. And for only $0.12 the price is right.