waves on the e.c.

the caribbean is difficult to figure out. the tide doesnt really change more than 2 feet between high and low tide, so i gather that it doesnt matter that much. it was shit when we checked it this morning. we checked the waves again after breakfast and they sucked. we loaded up the car, packed day bags, and when we pulled 50feet to the end of the street to leave town,and the waves were head high and perfect, clean. ha. crazy that it changed so quick. so we returned the car to the cabina and went for a surf right out front. it was fun, powerful and clean. surfed for about 30 minutes and then within 5 minutes it almost doubled in size/weight. heavy and fast. the sets were breaking like the day that shawn, me and adam surfed the 'secret' spot in esterillos. totally crazy and totally random. it was difficult to find a spot, there isnt one peak. but i had the 3 biggest waves out there. the locals were hooting and hollering me on. and then just as quickly as the well cleaned up, and then picked up, it turned to shit again. in the matter of minutes. but we got in a good two hours of surf so that was good. i think that my leash stretched about a foot today haha. a few i stayed in too late and couldn't cut out, so i just had to jump off my board. some powerful surf out there. also, there is a current which you should definitely pay attention too. i just took a peek at it, but it looked crappy like this morning. but who knows, going to keep my eye on it and maybe it will get perfect again before dark?

we came back to the cabina and just hung out in the hammocks and rocking chairs. we moved into a room upstairs that is beautiful and cozy. its crazy how much cooler it is on the caribbean...even the water. its only a few degrees cooler, but the water is refreshing and the air isn't sweltering. i was dozing in and out of sleep in the hammock when nico gave us a holler about empanadas. a woman stopped by the house with chicken empanadas, for 400 colones!!!! mmmm. it was so good, and it was just what i needed.

looking forward to what the east coast will continue to throw my way. and lucky us, michelle checked the swell and in a few days when we head back to esterillos, a swell will be rolling thru! woohooo. pura vida.