Growing Up

I've been surfing for a long time. I have done competitions all over, and traveled all over - surfing amazing waves, and surfing them well. BUT - I've always been terrified of the water. Well, as of last year (some humbling waves in Dominical) I now have a respect for the ocean as oppossed to a fear...kindof. Anyways, for the first time in my WHOLE life I paddled out by myself. And I surfed solo for a half hour. For a few minutes I was a bit spooked, but then I warmed up to the peace of surfing all alone in the big, blue ocean.

I'm starting to grow up...I think.

“There is nothing wrong with being afraid---but there is nothing more wrong than allowing that to be your master.”