MmMm. Vietnamese iced coffee!!! SOOOO GOOOOOD. Made that super strong bialetti espresso last night and after a long surf session this morning it was just what I needed...as strong as jet fuel. Today Hermosa was about head high (which means it was a bit overhead on me because I'm so damn short). You can tell that swell is pushing in though because the waves are filling out - a bit more thick, with a bit more power. And I've said it before, and I'll say it again - there is NO workout, NO equipment, NO routine that can prep you for surfing aside from surfing. Cause I have been busting my ass at the gym and I have been hurtin here. Another week of surf I think I will start to feel accustomed and won't be so whooped after a session. Got some nice 10's today -- which was nice because I was only really gettin 5's before in the semi-soft waves.
I'm no lady. By any means, I am no lady. But living at Soda Mary has had it's moments. There has been more farting, cursing, drunkeness and talking about shitting and having sex than I have ever been subjected to. It's an entertaining crowd for sure. A rowdy crowd. From TEXAS. "Deep in the HEART of Texas!". Les is always forgetting to put in his teeth, Adam is always ripping loud farts (thank GOD they don't stink), Mike is always forgetting Paloma (his dog) in town, Brett tells his story about getting barrelled, again and again, and Noah fires up a joint. A random crew that I have come to love, their quirks and all. I do look forward to heading to Billy's though after this weekend. It will be a completely different atmosphere. Mellow, clean (both physically and socially), and there will be some room to spread out and stretch!!!
Gotta go now, finish my muy deliciouso iced coffee and make some kind of lunch.
Pura Vida.
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