not all who wander are lost.

Wednesday, December 12, 2012

A Little Language, Goes A Long Way...

None of the Sri Lankans can wrap their heads around how much Sinhalese I know, and how little time I've been here. I was told today, by several different locals, that I know more Sinhalese than almost every foreigner that they've come across. They ask if I'm going to school here, working here, or planning to live here...but I'm not doing any of the above, I just love languages and I love the smile that I get when I speak the local language (even if I'm butchering the pronunciation...). So today I made lots of friends, tried some new things, and soaked up a lot of sun as I was absorbed into my current novel. I hung at the hotel/restaurant Kingfisher in Unawatuna because I like that part of the beach and I love the guys that work there. After a fair bit of sun, swim and reading, I left my stuff at Kingfisher and went for a walk to get some lunch. I wanted something local and authentic, and I got just that-- ending up in the back of a grocery hut for some curry and rice. When I walked in and said hello it was like the world froze. Everyone stopped eating and just stated at me. A dozen locals and me. It took about five minutes for everyone (including the owners) to realize that I meant to be there and that I planned to eat. Though all the locals pay 150 rupees and eat with their hands, the owner (I guess) didn't think that I was quite ready for that...so my food was separated into individual bowls, served up on a serving tray, and had utensils and napkins. I paid 300 rupees. Perhaps the price increase wasn't just the "white tax" but instead for the actual napkins and extra silverware and such, seeing as everyone else used old newspapers as napkins. The stares continued throughout lunch but I was unphased...my head was buried in my plate, my mind was trying to decipher each taste so I could describe in my blog, and any free bit of attention that I had was used to swat away the flies that were competing for my meal. I washed it all down with two cups of delicious hot tea and then sat for a bit to digest the largest meal I've had in months. Yes, I paid twice as much as the locals- but it was only $1.10 more- and it's something that I was willing to pay for such delicious, authentic food. To eat anywhere else in this touristy town would cost about $10, and it wouldn't be nearly as good. After my meal I made my way back to kingfisher, making friends with every taxi driver and street-hanger that I passed. My Sinhalese vocab was growing with every step. When I got back to my spot I took a dip, hung with the boys and then grabbed a TukTuk back to Gillys. Again, typical Asia: "do you know where Venlen Street is by Thomas Gall School", "Oh yes yes, absolutely." Well nearly an hour later and id seem every sight and every street in Galle! Eventually Gilly tracked us down and we got back to her house for some relaxation and tea before her schools Christmas Concert. The last picture here is of Gillys house, my latest home. It even comes with cute cows...

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