Bah! I love September! To be honest, this September has been a *touch* too cold for me, but other than that, I am as happy as a clam. Due to a busy work schedule I wasn't able to log much water time this summer...but im making up for that now. I surfed for 7 hours on Friday, and had four sessions on Saturday. Glorious. Absolutely glorious. When I'm paddling out I always have a little fear in my chest that I 'don't remember' how to surf or have 'lost' my touch. Well, turns out that I haven't. It's like riding a bike. It felt so good to slide perfect clean waves *all day long*. And the best part is that I have quasi-moved into a friends house in OC, so in between sessions I could easily recharge, warm up and rest just around the corner. So wonderful! I think what warmed my heart the most though was reconnecting with my beautiful surf community. It's such a testament to be able to pick up exactly where you left off despite months of being apart. Marc, Monk, Gary, Eddie, Chris, Coconut Joe and so many more...my unofficial 'surf' family...it felt like sliding back into a warm hug. And then there was my Dad. Coming off of a rough week (the one year anniversary), I must say that I was totally at peace with it all- because I feel oh-so-connected to him while in the water, which is where we had spent most of our time together.
The past few days I have gotten dozens of compliments about how great and how happy I look...and I owe it all to a few fun waves and a little bit of sunshine....
No comments:
Post a Comment