not all who wander are lost.

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Surfing in the Sky

Surfing in Bejuco today was like surfing in the sky. You could see the exact reflection of the birds and the clounds and the sunshine. The water was so blue that my board blended right in, and you could see to the bottom...every crab, fish, shark, and jellyfish. Surreal. It was an LB session...even shredder-shredfest Ozzie had a 10'6" out there. The waves were waist high, chest on the sets, and perfect clean peelers. We were switching up longboards the whole time, though I must say that Oz was the only one who benefited from the switch-up....he was loving my 9 footers...I wasn't loving his almost-eleven-freaking-feet-tall beast. Good times.

Came home and I made some green eggs (onions, spinach, broccoli...scrambled with some eggs), and beans and tortillas for breakfast. Took a nap, read, and played some guitar. After the nap Shawn and I headed down to Soda Mary for some social time, and we picked up a pineapple because I had a PINA cravin'!!

I'm feeling kinda bummed knowing that I'm going home, but I guess it's about time to get back to the real world. I'm gonna bring the Pura Vida home with me though, and spread the good word and good vibes.

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