Casa de Adam

Casa de Adam:

Shawn and I are living at Adam's house. He lives less than a mile from the beach, and only a minute from Soda Mary. Also at the house are Adam's parents (Les and Mama)...their house, which is three doors down, won't be ready for another few months. Plus Newman and Hank, the two dogs. The house is wonderful, and as I mentioned before, AIR CONDITIONED!!! Woohooo! We have an entertainment system, surround sound, hammocks out back and cold beers in the fridge. We've been feasting, laughing, talking trash, reminiscing, and eating. Adam's hospitality is above and beyond, and Shawn & I are enjoying every moment.

Yesterday afternoon, after having a morning session at the secret spot and a brief nap, we paddled out front here in Oeste for a phenomenal session. Waves were solid overhead and breaking a mile out. I love this wave...it's like a skate park, with peaks all over, so there's enough waves for everyone. Got some waves all the way to the beach...my legs hurt from standing for so long!! Getting in at the end of the session was interesting. The sun was setting and the high tide was high high high, causing a 7 foot backwashin' beachbreak. It reminded me of North Carolina...how the sand drops off, so you can't touch, but you can't paddle in because the water is sucking back into a huge closeout which breaks on the sand. I just waited and waited, timing it just right and getting in unscathed. We headed back to Adam's Bed & Breakfast and I cooked up some fish tacos. MmMm were they good. We had some laughs and then passed out.

Had a rough night. I've been a bit ill lately, and it kept me up throughout the night. Waking up at 530am for surf, I was a bit cranky and groggy, but nothing that a Bialetti Americano couldn't fix! Stretched a bit and then we headed down to the beach. Surf was a tad bit smaller then it was yesterday, but it was still overhead and pretty goddamn good! I had some fantastic fun waves and then we all headed back to Adam's for some homemade breakfast burritos and fried plantains!

Resting up now then heading into Jaco to hit up the ATM (I'm moneyless, so Shawn said he'd lend me some moooolah), going to stop at the Pharmacy, have lunch, then head back into town for a surf.

Pura Vida.