Day 2 & 3:
Well…two beers, internet and then some chill time on the porch. Playing guitar, watching the pipas grow. Excuse me, “coco’s”. For dinner I made a big salad, rice and beans. The salad had roasted beets, goat cheese, avocado, pickled red onions and sunflower seeds. The dressing was honey & lime juice, salt and pepp. MmMmMm. Woke up at 5:30 this morning and did yoga on our porch, only light being a few little tea candles. A little after 6:30 we started on some Bialetti and by 7:30 we were sitting in the lineup…the sun still struggling to come out. I was freezing…cool water, cool breeze and no sun. Goosebumps in Mex! Bah. We shared the peak with a few other people for the first hour and then it got really crowded after that. Still managed to catch some amazing waves…fast, perfect faces, peeling forever. After about two hours we decided that we were tired enough and hungry enough to let the crowds force us out. I made scrambled eggs, rice and beans, some sliced up tomato and cabbage topped with lime juice and a dash of EVOO. Sipping on some hot black tea {Lipton’s, of course} with cream and sugar, typing this blog as I sit on my beachside porch. The waves are still firing in – well overhead, clean lines. Maybe we will rally and paddle out for a second session. Or maybe we’ll just lay in the hammocks and watch the coco’s grow….
I always miss my family – starting the minute I pull out of their driveway en route to the airport. But it’s really starting to sink in. It’s been about 4 months since I’ve seen them, and about 6 months since I’ve been settled back at home. Missing Shawnie too. Hoping that he is having a good time in Australia. We decided that it’s best to cut communication, which I’m finding rather difficult. For two years he was my best friend and confidant. I want to tell him all about my fun adventures – the perfect waves I’ve had, and the funny face plants. Several times I day I think “Bah, Shawn would love this” or “Ha – wait til I tell Shawnie!” I’m guessing this gets easier with time? Also, Jamie leaves in 10 days, but I think I need a bit more time here before heading back to the Northeast. I’m giving myself one week for things to work themselves out, and if they don’t – I’ll return to the States. Otherwise, the adventure will continue for a bit longer. As of this moment I have no ticket, no plan and no idea of what’s next. I think I like it.
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