Today I surfed big waves.
BIG WAVES.
Big.
I had the wipeout of the day...I air-dropped 8 feet, landed with one foot on my board, didn't catch my balance quick enough - so the wave swept me up, threw me over the falls, and drug me about 200 yards underwater.
I missed the wave of the day. I was too far outside, too far by about 2 paddles. I missed a 15 foot wave. Damnit. Maybe it was a blessing in disguise?
I also had the best waves of the day. Longest, biggest, and best.
Goddamn, I love Costa Rica.
blessing...probably:) love youuu! be careful & keep livin it up....cold as hell here;)
ReplyDeletewe had waves big as garbage trucks here, come on back, we miss you...Lagarto
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