La Ola Del Dio es MIO

We woke up at 5am for an early morning surf.
The swell has been firing lately.
Overhead, fast, heavy, fun beachbreak.
This morning I took off on the bomb set. And made it.
Solid 8 foot (paulie and franklin said 8 to 10, so ill downplay and say 8).
I took off deep, pulled in, and fired across the wave, hearing the intensity of the wave inches behind me.

I love surfing. I want to surf all day every day.

Pura Vida.

ps...MOM IS HERE: i almost fell over when i saw her yesterday. so did dad.what a surprise!! christ almighty.