not all who wander are lost.

Thursday, May 12, 2011

Ombak Besar

Ombak Besar. Big Wave.

The waves are huge. The whole bay is shutting down-- nowhere can hold the swell, except for Nungas. Marny, Brian and a few others braved the bombs, but the rest of us decided to sit this one out. Luckily my friend Dallas has a house, an ammmmazing house, on Nungas-- so we packed our bags and posted up for the day. We packed water and cookies and snacks and have passed the time swimming, lounging, doing headstands, bronzing and watching Marny through the binoculars, getting barrel after barrel.

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